(all prices listed are estimated averages for the Portland, Oregon retail market)

July 2nd, 2010
'A Shopping List'

This week, rather than share two new wines and two great deals, what I’ve done is list the four wines that I’ll be sharing with friends in my backyard on the Fourth of July. Because these are all wines that are available in any good wine shop in the Portland area, you can think of this as a shopping list of sorts. I’ve also listed them in preferred order of consumption, though as my friend John likes to say, the wine police will not ride up and ticket you if you drink them in a different order.

So, first off, because it’s likely four o’clock (or three or two o’clock) on a holiday and you’ll want to start things off on a light/fresh note, I’ve chosen this zippy little semi-sparkling white:

Tintero Elvio, Grangia, Italy – I’ve written many times before about wines that defy the “What is it?” question – wines that throw a stone into the gears of the wine paradigm. The irony about many of these seemingly odd wines is that they are often among the most traditional. For example, in northern Italy’s Piedmont region, small trattorias often serve a very light, sparkling, dry white wine with appetizers or antipasti. These wines are typically produced using the Favorita grape (also known as Vermentino) and a small splash of Moscato for beguiling aromatics. Though I can’t say that my first experience with these wines was in Italy, I have paired them with charcuterie, such as prosciutto, and the match is spot-on. In this particular wine, I found aromatics of green apple and fresh flowers, which lead to a light and frothy mouthful of citrus. Dry on the finish and easy on the liver at only 11.5% alcohol, this is not only a no-brainer summer wine, but an excellent accompaniment to a wide range of savory foods. $11/btl.

And because this holiday is all about setting things on fire and blowing stuff up, I’ve chosen the only real man’s drink to be next in line, a dry rosé:

2009 Chateau Miraval ‘Pink Floyd’ Rosé, France – The reference to the prolific British rock band does seem a little out of place on this bottle at first glance, so I typically address it when talking about the wine. Apparently, the story goes that Pink Floyd vocalist Roger Waters recorded much of the vocals for the album ‘The Wall’ at this estate in 1979. Now that we’ve set the stage with pyrotechnics and rock and roll, we can start to talk about why this wine is so perfect for the July 4th holiday. It starts with a kaleidoscope of brilliantly bright nectarine and herbal aromas, which leads to a psychedelic burst of citrus and more nectarine fruit on the palate. This orchestra of fruit is supported by a strobe light of electric acidity and goes on for minutes, just like that drum solo before intermission. $17/btl.

And because this holiday is all about freedom, I will be celebrating the fact that my house is a Beaujolais Nouveau-free zone. In it’s place I offer you:

2008 Jean-Paul Thevenet Beaujolais, Morgon, France – For those of you whose experience with Beaujolais hasn’t yet extended beyond those sad little Nouveau wines that arrive like locusts in the fall, I have a wine that will absolutely change your mind about the Gamay grape. The Cru wines produced in the 12 appellation villages in the area are about as different from Beaujolais Nouveau as a go-cart is from a Maserati. The former are simply industrial wines and the latter are a result of meticulous farming and serious attention to detail in the winery. The result is this: On the nose I found candied cherry and ripe strawberry aromas, along with vivid spice notes like cinnamon and allspice. The palate is surprisingly lush in texture, but somehow maintains a freshness and lightness despite all of the ripe fruit. Mind-bending complexity plows ahead in the form of raspberry, licorice, and even hints of wet earth at the finish. I love this wine and I want everyone to taste it – now! $32/btl.

And because no party with flames and grilling food would be complete without a rustic Rhone red, may I suggest:

2007 Cheateau Rabasse-Charavin, Cotes du Rhone, France – Definitely a standout estate in the southern Rhone Valley, Chateau Rabasse-Charavin is also noteworthy for the fact that they boast a female winemaker. Corinne Coutrier took over winemaking responsibilities from her father in 1985, and in 1993 her daughter Laure joined her. This wine, which is their basic red, is produced using Grenache, Syrah, and Carignane grapes, the staple for blends of this sort in the region. Where most Cotes du Rhone appellation wines are made for immediate consumption, I’ve seen this wine evolve over time in past vintages, improving along the way. The details: concentrated aromas of blackberry and black cherry fruit showing up front. The palate is loaded with ripe red and black fruit, coffee and tar notes, and perfect acidity that rises up at the end with a snap. Should pair famously with anything you haven’t burned. $15/btl.

 

June 4th, 2010
'Highlights From This WeeksTastings'

2006 Villacezan Seis Meses Tinto, Spain – Established in 2007, Tierra de Leon is one of the newer wine appellations in Spain, but its wine-producing history dates back to Roman times when grapes were introduced to the area. Sitting at 900 meters above the sea, the considerable altitude helps lengthen the growing season and produce fruit with substantial varietal character. Primarily grown here is the red Prieto Picudo grape, which forms the foundation of this delicious wine. Finishing out the blend is 20 percent Mencia, which adds spice, depth, and freshness to Prieto Picudo’s sweet plum fruit flavors. Subtle notes of barrel vanilla and bright acidity add interest, while the overall impression is one of superb balance for a wine in this price range. $15/btl.

2008 Edmunds St. John Bone-Jolly Gamay, California – Last week, I wrote about Steve Edmunds’ Porphyry Gamay, which is a wine that I will continue to insist my customers try. However, I also now have his basic Gamay offering, the Bone-Jolly, produced from El Dorado County fruit. Crafting wines from varietals that are generally overlooked in the U.S. is not some recent whim for Steve Edmunds; he’s been subverting the wine paradigm in California since the mid 1980s and we hope he has many vintages ahead of him. In my opinion, every wine region could use more people like him; providing a fresh look at what we expect from an area’s wines and proving that diversity is possible just about anywhere. This spicy little Gamay has been a favorite summer red of mine for years and this vintage follows through with a lot of the same fresh character. Specifically, we found strawberry and raspberry at the core, with light notes of pepper and even a little iron-like mineral note on the finish. Delicious by any measure. $16/btl.

2008 Spangler Sauvignon Blanc, Oregon – Though Oregon is by this point well known for it’s Pinot noir – with wineries producing great versions from the northern part of the state all the way to the Rogue and Umpqua Valleys in the south. When it comes to white wine, Sauvignon Blanc is not our most famous. I can name a handful in the cooler northern part of the Willamette Valley that I enjoy, but as I tasted this wine last week, I couldn’t name one that I thought worthy from the south – at least until now. Spangler’s Sauvignon Blanc straddles the riper new world side of Sauvignon Blanc, with its layers of ripe citrus and small amounts of fresh herb. But, what it also does is come across as relatively restrained, offering bright acidity and a body that, while not lean, is light enough to finish refreshingly. Interesting minerality at the finish convinced me that this is one of the best Sauvignon Blanc values in the state, if not the best. $14/btl.

2005 Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino, Italy – Let this serve as fair notice to Brunello fans that this is one fantastic buy. If you’ve shopped for Brunello recently, you know that the decent ones go for at least $50, with many reaching much closer to $100. Because many retailers bought in early on the Caparzo (a great old estate by the way), they are briefly able to offer this gem for close to half off. Though I haven’t tried this particular vintage, I can speak to the general quality of this winery’s offerings and well, my mind is already imagining the fresh but spicy red berry fruit, the espresso and licorice notes, the beautiful floral aromas, and the ease at which it balances power and finesse. If you act quickly you won’t need to imagine, you can join this lovely wine in our own dimension for $32/btl.